Toast Hash Roast Mash: Real Food for Every Time of Day
Informal, easy and indulgent. Dan Doherty’s new book is filled with simple, honest food that would be great for brunch, but awesome any time of the day. We cook a few recipes to test it out.
The book is filled with gorgeous sounding recipes that involve a lot of oozy eggs, melted cheese, and lots of things that would be excellent for brunch or a hangover. One of which I wish I enjoyed more frequently.
Ingredients bought, I was feeling confident that it was going to be awesome. Newcastle Brown Ale, Worcestershire Sauce, Onion Jam and Stilton. What’s not to like?
Blue cheese, English mustard & onion jam rarebit.
I had always wanted to try my hand at a proper Welsh rarebit, so when the Welsh rarebit with stilton and onion jam appeared in front of me, I took my opportunity to make a seriously unhealthy and potentially delicious lunch for the office.This recipe is the first one in the chapter named HANGOVER, so I also wanted to see how easy it would be to knock up. Ingredients bought, I was feeling confident that it was going to be awesome. Newcastle Brown Ale, Worcestershire Sauce, Onion Jam and Stilton. What’s there not to like? The recipe itself was very easy, just make a cheese sauce and add to it a reduction of Ale, Worcestershire Sauce and English Mustard. Spread a layer of Onion Jam onto the toasted Sourdough and pour over the cheese sauce. Pop it under the grill — not too hot, because I ‘tested’ it, and it burns really well — and it’s ready.
I had to eat a second slice to make doubly sure — These are seriously good. They have the cheesy indulgence that a cheese on toast offers, but are much more rich and complex. A much more grown up delight. The cheese sauce is a perfect balance to the crispy sourdough. A combination that I will have to create again.
I was pleasantly surprised to find out that it only cost £0.65 per slice and made 6 generous slices.
After lunch was over, I popped back to the office to do some calculations of the cost of the whole recipe. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that it only cost £0.65 per slice and made 6 generous slices. It would have stretched to more bread, but that’s all we had.
Day 2. The Onion Bhaji Scotch Egg.
This recipe looked like it was going to be amazing and it seriously was. Interestingly, it was also in the HANGOVER chapter, but I’m not sure if I would be able to cope with all of the stages if I wasn’t entirely with it. It is certainly fiddly and at times challenging, but worth it if you persevere.
In this recipe, the most challenging part was getting the Bhaji mix to become the right consistency. I wasn’t sure how thick it should have been but I went for what felt right, and I think it turned out well in the end. The boiling eggs part would also be rubbish if hungover. I used eggs that had been laid that day which turned out to be a mistake. I learned that a if an egg is too fresh, once boiled, it won’t peel nicely, so that was a stressful element that I thought would be much easier.
The boiling eggs part would also be rubbish if hungover. I used eggs that had been laid that day from the farm which turned out to be a mistake.
The final outcome was fantastic. Regardless of all the faff, I was very pleased that on my first attempt at a scotch egg, It had a runny yolk. Probably too runny and could have done with a little longer in the fryer, but I didn’t want to burn the outside. A tricky balancing act for sure. The meat was spicy and full of exciting indian flavours which really brought out the meaty flavour. The bhaji was crunchy and delicious, and the egg was runny and indulgent. A very special recipe if you have the time and effort to spare.
Day 3: Pork and prune meatballs, mushroom gravy, Parmesan.
This recipe was such a favourite in the office, that I had to make it two weeks in a row. It’s creamy, warming and delicious. Everything you need for a cold autumn evening.
The recipe itself is very easy to put together, the only part that needs any work is making the meatballs which is very straightforward.
Fry some onions and herbs and add it to the pork and prunes to make the meatballs. Make a creamy mushroom sauce. Put it all together and cover it with breadcrumbs and cheese and finish it in a hot oven. Couldn’t be easier.
The whole book is filled with the most indulgent good looking meals. A definite must for anyone interested in making comforting food with eggs, pancakes, ideas for things on toast, delicious hash made from last night’s roast, puddings and indulgent cocktails. I can’t wait to cook something from it again. I think I’ll go for the ultimate grilled cheese sandwich.
[Photographs by Timothy Tyndale]